Cafe Ponte, Clearwater, FL: If you Blink, You'll Miss It

The Cafe Ponte is an unassuming little restaurant set in the front of a mostly unoccupied strip mall.  I would not have gone if my hotel manager had not recommended it.  I had passed it earlier and decided immediately to keep going.  For once, the hotel manager made a great selection. A small sign at the front door revealed a healthy Zagat star approval, and a framed newspaper article boasted this was a favorite of Wolfgang Puck's when he was in town (not to drop names), because it reminded him so much of Paris cafes.  Really?  I didn't get that vibe from the street.

But open the door, and the opinion changes.  Warmly greeted by the hostess, she asked if a booth in the bar would be ok.  They were busier than expected for a Monday night, and though she didn't say it, I know she wanted to keep her prime seats open for a party larger than one.  Just made good business sense.

The bar lights dimmed to a pleasant glow almost immediately after I was seated in the tri-color booth.  Finished in a faux suede, the booth evoked an earlier time than 2011.  The low lights, white tablecloths and waitstaff in white shirts and ties made me think of supper clubs, the type you see in old black and white movies from the 40's.  Light, jazzy piano sounds in the background enhanced the atmosphere, and provided some protection against the loud voices of some of the bar patrons.

Brittany arrived soon after the waiter and menus were delivered.  I orderd a Sacred Hill Sauvignon Blanc '08.  I thought I would start with a nice crispy white from the Marlborough region of New Zealand.  Unfortunately, it arrived over-chilled to the point where the only aspect that could be determined was the acidity of the wine.  As it warmed up, I was pleasantly acquainted with the release of grapefruit and lemon grass.  It has a warm, fruity finish that lingered.

The bread boy made his rounds amidst the booths.  "Asiago, raisin-nut, calamata olive or lavache?"  He swooped the calamata olive bread onto my plate with a silvery set of tongs, then laid out a little bowl of butter with sea salt and rosemary.  It was not warm, but the bread was slightly chewy and crusty, and perfectly complemented by their special butter.

I had planned to order just and entree and keep the evening short and uncomplicated.  But the continuous oohing and aaahing from the booth beside me changed my mind.  Like that lady in "Sleepless in Seattle", I ordered what she was having for an appetizer.

There are many ways to serve calamari, and I've tried and loved most of them - breaded, fried, sauteed, spicy, sweet, with marinara sauce, with chilies, with pesto.  But tonight provided another first, Asian Calamari.  Served on a bed of baby spinach, the calamari nestled cozily with peanuts, onions, bean sprouts and red peppers.  To keep things friendly, the chef drizzled a complex aioli sauce of cilantro, mustard, ginger and red hot sauce over the calamari, then added cilantro and sauteed red onion to complete this tasty treat.  Dare I admit?  It was the best I've ever tasted.  Just divine.

Brittany returned to check on things and to see about another glass of wine.  She recommended the McManis Viognier.  As a matter of fact, she'd been recommending it to anyone who asked all night.  I was planning to order a ravioli, so how could I resist?  A crisp Viognier would be a nice, clean accompaniment to a rich sauce.  The choice was between an unoaked chardonnay and the Viognier.  Brittany made the right recommendation.

When she returned with the Viognier, she included a pleasant little surprise - a mini-taste of their  Pumpkin Curry Crab Bisque with white truffle.  Served in a white demi-tasse, it was a lovely way to offer a sample.  How good was it?  Just delicious, perfectly crabby and mushroomy, silky and warm.                                                                                                                         The McManis Viognier was equally delightful.  Crisp and cold, it had a sweet apple and tart pear forward flavor, followed by a mouthwatering acid finish - nothing like the painfully acidic finish the Sauvignon Blanc exhibited.  One nice surprise was the clean, mineral aroma.  Good one Brittany!

And then the final link fell into place.  (I guess that's a mixed metaphor. Perhaps I should say the final puzzle piece fell into place, but that's so cliche, and hardly a food-worthy expression, don't you think?)  Brittany served the Butternut Squash Ravioli.  Even though it was a warm night in Clearwater, Florida, the season had changed to Autumn, and it just felt like the right night to enjoy an Autumn-inspired dinner.

The ravioli was filled with a slightly cinnamon-enhanced butternut squash, then sauteed in a hazelnut brown butter sauce.  The squash had been diced and cooked to a perfect consistency.  At first the ravioli had a slightly fishy taste, then I realized it was not fish I was tasting, it was the brown butter sauce.  Rarely do chefs cook with it, and it gave the ravioli almost a baked dessert smell.  Tart apple slivers and tangy goat cheese combined with sage, ginger, mascarpone and hazelnut rendered the perfect fall topping to the butternut squash ravioli.  One bite into a ravioli pillow with a hazelnut provided all the sweet flavors of fall with a nutty bite.  The next bite could combine the cheese and apple and you feel like you're eating dessert.  Assemble all the ingredients together on one fork and you have a satisfying but light autumn dinner.

Wine in Chains

The title is WINE IN CHAINS, not WOMEN in CHAINS. Who put that picture there?

Many travelers (or stay-in-town eaters, for that matter) tend to fall into one of several categories: when they travel out of town, they will only eat at chains with which they are familiar, thinking that way at least they'll know what quality to expect. Others will only eat in the hotel where they stay (this is generally the worst choice known to civilized humankind). There's the slightly adventurous, who will reach for their Blackberry, click on their "Yelp" ap, and type in "local restaurants", to see what others have thought about their dining destinations. And then there's the slightly more adventurous who will eat at any diner, restaurant or dive that looks interesting and has a lot of cars in the parking lot. My style tends to fall into the last two categories, and I have to tell you, I've rarely been disappointed.

But today's post is about wines from some well-known chains. Taking some info from February's Food and Wine, and some from my own experience, here are some suggestions:P. F. Chang's is a semi-high-end Chinese joint. I went to my first P. F. Chang's in Phoenix, Arizona many years ago on a date. Have to admit, I was under-impressed by the quality. The portions were ridiculously huge, and the prices were high (especially compared to the mom-and-pop Chinese restaurants found locally). Nonetheless, when they opened shop in my town, I tried them again. Still I find them over-priced, over-salted, and some items a little oily, but they've got a couple of decent wines. Their best red is a nice Pinot Noir from New Zealand. It's the 2009 Boulder Bank and is priced at $38/bottle, locally. I'm not much for reds from down under, but this one has aromatic herbal notes that brighten the fruit. Their best white is the Fillaboa Albarino ($33). It's a Spanish wine, produced in the Galicia region. Very focused and zesty. I'm going to try more Spanish whites this spring and summer.

Ah yes, Legal Seafoods. Gotta go there when you're in town, right? It's legit! It's local! No, it's a high-priced, touristy chain. I admit, the food is good. But I would not recommend it unless someone else is treating you. The wines: Red is the 2008 Ridge East Bench Zinfandel for $39 (see, told you they were a little steep.) Time spent in American oak barrels gives this juicy red a soft spicy bite. Their best white is the 2009 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc ($38). This is truly one of the best Sauvignon Blanc's you'll find out of New Zealand. Crisp, focused, liquid nectar.

Go for the steak, not the ambience. Locally, our Capital Grille is generally quite noisy, starting early and going all night. But the food is delish and the wait staff is usually delightful. Their best red is also a big red. The 200 WillaKenzie Estate Pinot Noir, at $64/bottle, is a little rich, but so is the wine. It's a structured yet earthy Pinot big enough to complement any steak, and it's vinted in Oregon, one of my favorite wine-producing states. Their white is a little cheaper, at $28/bottle, but is just as good. The 2009 Tilia Torrontes from Argentina is floral and lively. You will love it.

Olive Garden, because when you're here, you're family. Right, whatever. My family has never charged me for a glass of wine. Ever. Olive Garden is a decent family restaurant, a good place to teach your kids about table manners and why you should always chew food with your mouth closed. Olive Garden has really stepped up their game with their Italian wine offernings. I generally drink their house red, which is ok. But if you're there with friends instead of small children, may I recommend you try their 2008 Feudo Arancio Nero d'Avola? At $24/bottle, you'll get a taste of Sicily's warm climate with a lovely, spicy depth. Prefer a white? Choose the 2009 Mandra Rossa Fiano for just $24. Western Sicily is the source for this citrusy, unoaked white wine.

I'm only going to say this once. Go to Macaroni Grille for the bread. Stay for the food and "honors" wine. Disregard Patric, who'll be your waiter tonight and write his name on your paper table cloth in three shades of crayon, upside down and backwards. Just get that part out of your head. Go with a bunch of friends, order a lovely meal and the house wine. Take it from there - you just can't go wrong with the Macaroni Grill.